Finally we’ve made it! We are sitting at anchor in True Blue Bay with a few other boats, Adonis being one of them and our friends, whom we met way back in Martinique with their kids, being the other.
Since our last post, where we thankfully had the named storm Chantal pass north of us, we’ve quickened our pace heading down here. We left Tyrrel Bay and went to Ronde Island, which is between Carriacou and Grenada, and stayed there for a few nights. On our way there we had the fishing line out and we (mainly me) desperately wanted a fish because our last fish was finished and we’re running low on food anyway. Sure enough, about two hours into our sail we caught a small (1.5 – 2 feet) barracuda – so small that it didn’t take any line off the reel and if it wasn’t for the rod vibrating, we would never have noticed it! We carefully unhooked it (barracuda have monstrous teeth that will easily take a nice sized chunk of you if you’re not careful) and threw it back. Some of you are probably wondering why we didn’t keep it and eat it since it was big enough for dinner. The reason we let it go is because a lot of coral scraping fish contain ciguatera here and even though barracuda aren’t coral scrapers, they are carnivorous and do eat them. Unfortunately, there are only two ways to test for ciguatera. One method is to send it to a laboratory and have the meat tested, which, by the time you get the test results, the fish will be well past its used by date and have to be binned anyway. Another way is to feed the suspect meat to a mammal (rat or mouse) and see if it gets sick before you eat it – not very nice. Considering we can’t do either of these, we are more than happy to sacrifice some fresh fish for the knowledge that we won’t be getting ciguatera poisoning anytime soon. We had a great time at Ronde Island anyway and we shared the bay between us, Adonis and a Belgian boat for most of the time. It was nice and protected, had great snorkeling and had a tiny little beach for us to play around on which is a welcome change from the jam packed Tyrrel Bay.
After two nights there, we continued on to Grenada on a five hour sail.
“If we catch a fish first, Randy has to clean the fish and cook us dinner, but, if you catch a fish first, mum will make a banana cake for you ok?” Xav asked Michelle over the radio and she happily agreed. Spurred on by the thought of some fresh fish cooked by chef Randy, I had the line in the second we left, hoping for something a bit better than our last barracuda. We sailed for about 4 hours and our destination was rapidly approaching and we hadn’t had a single bite. Just as we were getting fed up and ready to reel the line in, we heard the reel screeching as line was torn off it. We all quickly got up and manned our battle stations. I grabbed the rod and started working the fish to the boat, Dad dropped and furled the sails, Kir grabbed the camera whilst Xav and Mum went inside, not wanting to watch. Within 10 minutes we had the fish – another big wahoo – on deck without a hitch and we would have had anyone watching us fooled into thinking we were seasoned fishermen – very different to our last fishing fiasco. We killed it and bled it as we motored to our anchorage where we then waited for Adonis to arrive. As soon as they arrived we handed the fish over and within 20 minutes we had 40 big pieces of fish which we split between us and an agreed dinner date at 6:30 that night.
That night we had an absolute feast! We had ceviche (for those of you that don’t know it, you must google it. It’s fantastic!) for an entrée and fried wahoo with wild rice for the main and to say it was amazing would be an understatement.
So, we can finally tick off the “get to Grenada” box on the to-do list which we’ve been waiting to do for a while already. Next we need to tick off the “survive in Grenada for 4 months” box but, thankfully that’s still a long way away.